What does glycolic acid do for your skin? Reviewed by Dr. Corey Hartman, MD, USA What is glycolic acid? Glycolic acid is a water-soluble alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. Among AHAs – which include lactic, citric, malic and tartaric acids – glycolic acid has the smallest molecule, allowing it to penetrate the skin more deeply & effectively. It works primarily as an exfoliant, breaking the bonds that hold dead skin cells together so they can be shed naturally. This process reveals smoother, brighter & healthier-looking skin underneath. While glycolic acid occurs naturally, the glycolic acid for skin used in modern formulations is typically lab-synthesised. This ensures optimal purity, concentration, pH and stability – all essential for achieving the best glycolic acid for wrinkles, dullness and texture. What is glycolic acid used for? So, what does glycolic acid do? Primarily, it exfoliates the skin, encouraging natural cell turnover. This action is especially helpful for addressing: Uneven skin tone Rough texture Flaky patches Sun damage Fine lines & wrinkles Glycolic acid for breakouts is also popular due to its ability to clear pore-clogging debris on the skin’s surface – making it an effective complementary treatment for breakout-prone skin. In higher concentrations, glycolic acid is used in chemical peels administered by professionals to target deeper wrinkles & pronounced discolouration. Which skin type is glycolic acid good for? Glycolic acid is suitable for all skin types, though it is especially beneficial for: Normal to dry skin with signs of ageing or sun damage Oily or breakout-prone skin when paired with acne treatments Those with dull, uneven skin tone or persistent flakiness However, due to its small molecular size, glycolic acid can penetrate deeply and may cause irritation in sensitive skin. Start with lower concentrations and always apply sunscreen during the day to protect freshly exfoliated skin. Glycolic acid benefits A smoother, brighter and more even-toned complexion Reduction in the appearance of dark spots & hyperpigmentation Visibly minimises fine lines & wrinkles Improves skin firmness & elasticity Boosts skin hydration by enhancing hyaluronic acid production Addresses visible signs of sun damage Works well in synergy with ceramides for barrier repair Choosing the right glycolic acid product Not all glycolic acid skincare products are created equally. Here’s what to look for: pH level: A pH between 3 & 4 ensures effective exfoliation without irritation Concentration: A glycolic acid percentage of 5–10% is ideal for daily use Formulation: Avoid products with fragrance, essential oils or alcohol, which can irritate the skin Complementary ingredients: Look for glycolic acid and ceramides, antioxidants or soothing agents to support skin health For full-face treatments, use lightweight gels or serums. For bodycare, glycolic acid lotions can smooth rough areas like knees and elbows. How to use glycolic acid in your skincare routine Cleanse with a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser Apply glycolic acid (toner, serum or exfoliant), avoiding the eye area Follow with a hydrating moisturiser or serum – ideally one containing ceramides Always apply SPF during the day to prevent UV damage Begin using glycolic acid 2–3 times per week, and increase as your skin builds tolerance. Glycolic acid or salicylic acid – which one is right for my skin? While there are some overlapping benefits, such as restoring skin’s radiance, hydrating, & reducing signs of ageing, the difference between AHA and BHA do matter. Both acids offer exfoliating benefits but serve different skin needs: Glycolic acid: Great for surface exfoliation, brightening & reducing fine lines Salicylic acid: Oil-soluble, making it ideal for deep pore cleansing & breakout-prone skin You don’t have to choose – glycolic acid and salicylic acid can be used together in alternating routines or different times of day. What percentage of glycolic Acid is effective? 5–10%: Safe for daily exfoliation – brightens & smooths skin. Discover our 5% AHA Daily Smoothing Treatment and our 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant. 10–20%: Use occasionally for stronger exfoliation or stubborn signs of ageing. Discover our 10% AHA Advanced Smoothing Treatment. 20–30%+: Professiona-level peels. Always start low and increase gradually – especially if your skin is sensitive. Can you use glycolic acid with retinol? Yes, but proceed with caution. Both ingredients increase cell turnover and can irritate the skin when overused. To minimise risk: Use on alternate nights Apply ceramide-rich moisturisers to support your skin barrier Start slowly and observe how your skin reacts Glycolic acid side effects Glycolic acid side effects are usually mild but can include: Tingling or stinging upon application Redness or irritation Dryness or tightness if overused Increased sun sensitivity Minimise these effects by using sunscreen daily, starting with a low concentration and avoiding harsh combinations with other actives like vitamin C or retinoids. Read more about skincare ingredients.
References for this information: 1. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2021, pages 1–13 2. Molecules, April 2018, 23(4), ePublication 3. DNA Cell Biology, February 2017, pages 177-187 4. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, October 2015, pages 21-26 5. BioMed Research International, 2015, Volume 2015 6. Dermatology Research and Practice, February 2015, Volume 2015